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Disclaimer – This article intend is describe only
general processes the author has either performed or has found through a
generic search of other’s processes. None of the operations described
here are to be construed as a guaranteed success. Anyone performing these
processes should be aware that the firearm has been modified from the
Original Manufacturer design and factory warrantees may be voided.
Firearms manufactured
today are constructed to standard designs and of materials that should
last a very long time. Many components are made using standard machining
practices. These machining processes leaves minute marks on the metal
parts and possibly burrs or rough edges. These “imperfections” will
affect how the gun operates, cocks and cycles its components.
Removing these
“imperfections” or improving the components in your gun should make it
operate more smoothly and quickly. A typical firearm will have the
following components: trigger, hammer, cylinder or chamber, springs. Many
of these components can be improved or “slicked up”.
Prior to “slicking up”
your new firearm you should take it to the gun range and fire several
hundred rounds through it to establish or define where internal parts are
rubbing against each other and where cartridges may leave brass markings.
Older firearms will already have these tell tale markings. Disassemble the
gun and examine where these markings exist. Also closely examine how each
component interacts with other parts. Older guns should be examined for
severely worn or damaged parts that should be replaced.
Most of the smoothing
operations described use 600-grit wet/dry sanding paper that is wetted
with good quality gun oil. The intent is not to remove large amounts of
metal only smooth the surfaces. Removing burrs left over from machining
operations is an easy enough process; feel with your fingers and wherever
a rough exists smooth it with the 600-grit paper process. Where scratches
or worn spots exist they may be smoothed using the same process. Flat
surfaces like hammer faces and bolt sides will require smoothing of the
moving part and the smoothing the area of the stationary part. Significant
pressure on the paper is not needed, let the grit and oil do the work. For
smaller slots like on rifle bolt grooves use a Popsicle stick to get into
the grooves. Be careful of where you polish as the gun bluing will be
removed in the process.
Chamber smoothing or
polishing is accomplished using a cleaning wad that is slightly larger
than the chamber using polishing compound. For a 20-gauge shotgun use a
12-gauge cleaning swab. The wad will become saturated with the polishing
compound so the swab will not be usable for anything else. Chuck the swab
into a battery operated drill and coat the swab with polishing compound,
then press it into the chamber. While running the drill at a medium speed
be sure to push the swab in and out of the chamber to polish evenly. The
polishing compound will need to be reapplied periodically. As you work the
drill in and out you will feel the barrel warming. This is the clue to
stop, clean the chamber, inspect closely for smooth surface and repeat
until a smooth chamber results.
The trigger may have
several links with pivot pins and contact points. The pivot pins can be
smoothed along with contact points with other parts or the gun frame. Be
careful of the trigger contact with the sear as removing or changing the
contact with the sear can create a dangerous “hair trigger”.
The hammer will have a
pivot pin and contact points with the trigger and other gun components.
Pivot pins and contact points with other parts and the gun frame can be
smoothed.
The cylinder or chamber
can be smoothed to allow easier chambering and ejection of cartridges. New
gun chambers, particularly shotguns, have machining marks that can be
smoothed. Extractors can be deburred and smoothed to improve their
operation.
All of the afore mentioned
components will have springs to assist their normal operation. Changing
these springs can have a radical change in how the gun functions. Several
gun spring tuning kits are available and not too difficult to install. A
typical spring tuning kit may include the main spring, trigger spring and
extractor spring that are lighter than the factory springs. Be careful of
removing gun parts that have springs in the operating mechanism as these
springs can fly across the room. Also, remember that a lighter hammer
spring will make cocking easier but the hammer fall against the cartridge
primer will be lighter and may not cause ignition. |
